Sewing-machine attachment



March 26, 1929. T, ROBERTS v 1,706,633

SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENT Filed Jan. 2'7, 1926 Patented Mar. 26,' 1929.l

A UNITEDv STATES PATENTOFFICE.

THOMAS ROBERTS, 0F HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORk OF ONE-HALF TOJOSEPH E. DUB, 0F HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS. l i

SEWING-MACHINE ATTACHMENT.

Application l'ed January 27, 1926. Serial No. 84,062.

This 'invention relates to certain improvements in means for finishingthe edgesl of shoe uppers in the manner disclosed by the U. S. patent toDaniels #1,400,806, dated Dec. 20th, 1921.y

In performing the process disclosed in Said patent, a galloon is foldedabout a cord and stitched to the outer side of theshoe upper near itsedge and between the cord and the edge, after which the edge portion ofthe up-y per is folded onto its inner side, so that the cord-containingportion of the galloon is held on the folded over edge of the upper, andthe upper has a corded edge When finished, and is known as aFrench-cord7 edge. Said patent discloses, as alternative methods, theassembling of the galloon and cord by folding the galloon about the cordand securing its opposite portions together close to the cord, as apreliminary to the operation of stitching the galloon to the upper, andthe assembling of the galioon and cord injthis manner, at the time ofstitching the saine to the upper,

rlhe method last referred to has been considered advantageous over theother method, primarily because it dispenses With the oper,- ation ofassembling the cord and galloon before they are stitched to the upper,but, not only was the means disclosed in said patent, for-assembling thecord and galloon at the time they are stitched to the upper, been foundto be impractical, but, prior to my iiivention, no practical means, sofar as I am aware, have been devised Which enabled the cord and galloonto be assembled and stitched to the upper by one operation, and in amanner which produced satisfactory results. y n

One ofthe essentials to satisfactory results inthe performance of theprocess, is that the galloon bedraivn tightlyv about 'thecord and thatit be secured in this position by stitches,

and it is in this important particular that prior means for performingthe operation of assembling and stitching on ,at one time have failed,for, with a guiding means of the character illustrated in said patent,it is practically impossible for the operator so to guide the cord andgalloon that thecord Will be held firmly against the bottom of the foldin the galloon and the latter will be drawn tightly over the cord andits folds secured together close tothe same by the stitches which attach'the galloon to the upper. Y y

As a result of thefailure toproduce a pracas an adhesive for thispurpose, would be objectionable, as likely to interfere With rthe`operation of` thesewing machine needle, a kpaste form of adhesive hasbeen generally employed. In" practice much difficulty has beenencountered With the pasted galloon, for the reason that the paste isliable to lose its adhesive qualities, particularly if kept in stock fortoo long a time, so that the folds of the galloon become separated andthe cord misplaced inconsequence, making it practically impossiblc toattach it. Also, the paste tends to makel the galloon stiff, andthisstiffness is likely to increase with time. Onaccount of thisstiffness, difficulty has been encountered in connection with theso-called turning operation, in which the galloon, after it has beenstitched onto the outer side of the leather, is turned in onto the innerside thereof. This difficulty is encountered most frequently inconnection with patent leather, and onaccount of the stiffness of thegalloon an undue strain is placed on the leather at the point when theyare stitched together, so that the surface of the leather is frequentlycracked close to the line of stitches.

f On account of the fact that the corded galloon Vis prepared for aspecial purpose, it 1s impractical for the galloon manufacturer toprepare it in all the available shades, Weights Which he desires touse,for this this reason.y

Furthermore, upper leather is likely to vary in thickness, and, in orderthat satisfactory,

Work may be performed, the Athickness of the cord and galloon vshouldcorrespond to the -thickness of the upper. Vhil'e this correspondencemay be secured by varying the size of the cord according to requiredconditions, it has been considered impractical for the d-ealer in cordedgalloons to provide the saine with cords et dilierent size.

These, and other objections to the prepared galloon may he avoided byproviding` a practical means tor assembling any galloon and cord andstitching` them to the upper by one opera ion, so that the shoennuniiacturcr may then employ any galloon and cord which is available.

ln performing the process ot said Daniels patent, it has been toundpractically necessary to cement the galloon vto the inner side oii theupper when the turning` operation pertermed, so that the operation oisewing' on the lining' 'will be tacilitated. When the gralloon havingits folds cemented together is en'iployed, it is merely necessary toapply cement to one ot these tolds, but it' the cord and galloon wereassembled at the time they were stitched to the upper by the methoddisclosed ii said lanielspatent, a double cementing operation Woiiild benecessary cement both iolds ot the galloon to the inner` side ot theupper.

lhc objects of my invention are primarily, to provide means, adapted oruse in 'connection with a known type ot sewing machine, which will 'toldthe galloon about a cord and hold the cord securely against the bottoniot the told, 'While the stitches are passed tlnouajh the folded portionsof the galicon in t, proximity to the cord, and through the .el upper,to attach the galloon thereto, so tl the galloon will be drawn tightlyabout the cord and secured in .this position.

jther ohjects otl my invention are to provide an attachment which Will'told the galloon accurately, and in such a in an ner, that it will beso attached to the upper that when the edge portion ot.' the upper is`folded onto its inner side, both 'folds of the galloon may be cementedto the inner surface by a single cementing operation.

l accon'iplish these andA other objects oiE invention in the manorhereinalter def-scribed and illustrated in the acconipanyiirgY drawing'in which:

Fig'. l is a perspective View of a sewing machine attachment embodying apreferred torni ot my ii'ivention and showing,` the parts in position otuse.

fig. 2 is a plan view olE the attachment partly in horizontal section.

Fig'. 3 is a sectional View at line 3-3 oi 2.' F i' and 5 are sectionalviews at lines 'v-l and 5 5 respectively lol l? 2.

Fig. (S is an enlarged detail sectional if'iew at line 5-5 ot' Fig. 2.

Fie'. 7 a sectional view at linev7-7 ot Fig'. 2.

Fig. 8 is a view ot a section oi" the Work atter attaching,` and he toretolding, and

Fig. 9 is a section thereo'l after cen'ienting and folding.

As the device which embodies the invention comprises a torni otattachment adapted 'for use in connection With a common iorin ot upperstitching machine, preferably ot the cylinder type, it is consideredunnecessary to illustrate the same, except by indicating the machineparts directly associated therewith, which comprise the table T, theneedle hl et the sewing mechanisn'i and the edge guido G.

, llrccording. to my invention l provide an at aclnnent which comprisesa bracket a, adapted to be mounted on a fixed part or' the sewingmachine, not shown, beneath the level ot the work support-ingj`l`surface of the table 'l`, and having a fiat arm al formed integrallytherewith and extending` horizontally adjacent the level oi" said.surface. A guide plate secured on the arm al by means of screws c andprojects horizontally therefrom in transverse relation to the directionot 'feed oi the machine, and said guide plate is provided with an endportion having a semicylindrically Yformed tace 1, which extends :tromthe trent ed goot said plate to an. intermediate point therein, in thedirection ot the Steed, and a bore or cord passage o2 is tormet in saidportion which extents in concentric relation to the tace 1. Said plateZ) is provided with approximately horizontal faces Zi, o on its upperand und-r sides respectively, said; 'aces extending continuously Withthe tace U' and terminating` in vertical guide shoulders t5, Zi", whichextend 'the entire Width of the plate lt is to be particularly noted inthis connection that the Width ot the uppermost lace b3, or the distancetrom the middle ot the edge ltace 1 to the shoulder h, is substantiallyless than that oi" 'tace Z2, or the cOrrespending.;` distance toshoulder o", for reasons to be explained. A U-shaped sheet metalcasing;u e is extended about the entire end portion ot plate Z so as toenclose the `faces o1, if), of thereot, said casingl being held out oitcontact with said tacos and having its opposite portioi'is permanentlyconnected to the upper and under sides respectively ot the plate l), theinner surface ot 'the casin c being disposed in parallel relation to,and at such a distance from the faces (7)1, 3, o4. that a U-shapedguiding passage g is formed therebetween, which is adapted to receivethe galloon p and hold it in folded position as it is drawntherethrough, the guide shoulders 7), o being' arranged to engage theedges thereot, as it is ted, so that the ligalloon will he -tol dedalong` a longitudinal line adjacent but at one side ot its middle andthe foldv which engages the lower shoulder L will be Wider than theother told.

Vl`he front ed ege portion ot the plate o is pro vided With an integralprojection CZ, through which-a tubiilar' passage Z1 is formed, ot thesame size as the passage b2, Vand at riphtanglee thereto, thearrangement being' such that a cord 0 may be drawn through the passa-geido L1, in a direction which is slightly oblique to' the direction ofsaid passage, and partly across the same, in slightly convergentrelation to the adjacent concave surface of the casing e, and theninparallel relation thereto, and practically in line withthe line ofstitches which will be formed in the galloon, as it is delivered to thesewing mechanism, indicated by the needle N, the plate Z) and Y casing ebeing so supported that the delivery end of the face bl will be in closeproximity to the needle, andthe delivery end of the lower portion of theU-shaped passage g will he at the levelv of the surface of table T. Thecasing c tapers somewhat from its entrance to its discharge end, asshown in Fig. 7, so that the U-shaped passage g therethru taperscorrespondingly, the faces Z# also being formed to converge slightlyfrom the front to the rear end of face b1. The rear portion of the face67 is so formed with reference to the adjacent concave inner surface ofcasing e, or passage g, that the distance from said face to said surfacewill correspond to the diameter of the cord plus the thickness of thegalloon employed. That is the face 57 is held in sufliciently closeproximity to the concave face of casing@ to press the cord firmlyvagainst the bottom of the fold in the galloon v and thereby hold thelatter firmly against said concave face, as the galloon and cord aredrawn thru passage g, without causing undue friction thereon. v

`Vilith the above described construction, therefore, the cord andgalloon having been placed in the relative position already de'- scribedwithin the attachment, as they are drawn therethru, the galloon kWill befolded longitudinally along a line adjacent, but at one side ofits'middle and the cord will be delivered between thevfolds of thegalloony and pressed against the galloon at the line of the foldtherein, which may be conveniently termed the bottom of the fold.

In performing the operation of attaching the galloon and cord, as thusassembled, to a piece of upper leather g, as indicated in Fig. l, theleather piece, the edge portion of which will have been skived on itsflesh side, will be placed on the table, flesh side up, with its edgeportion resting on the casing e and its edge held against the edge guideG. The folded gailoon, with the cord therein, will be drawn from thepassage g, so that they lie on the table beneath the leather, and thelatter will be pressed firmly ontlie galloon by the usual presser foot,not shown. The feeding mechanism of the machine will draw the galloonand cord through the attachment as it feeds the leather, so that theywill be stitched together by a row of stitches s which will pass thruthe folds of the galloon close to the side of the cord opposite thebottom of the fold in the galloon.

It is to be particularly noted that the relative arrangement of theleather guide and the galloon guide is such that the galloon will beattached to the grain side of the leather in such a position that bothfolds of the gal# loon will project beyond the edge of the f leather and the narrower fold will lie next the grain surface of the leather, asshown in F' Y. 8. This is of vital importance for the foilowing reasons:In the subsequent operation of finishing the edge of the leather, theedge portion thereof is kfolded inward along such a line that the cordcontaining portion of the galloon is held on the edge or top of the foldthus formed. It has been found to be practically necessary to cement theinturn ed edges of the leather and galloonto the inner side oftheleather before the liningl is sewed on, consequently, a coating ofrubber cement is applied to the flesh side of the edge portion of theleather, and, at the same time, to the i portion of the narrower fold ofthe galloon which projects beyond the shived edge of the leather, andthe portion of the wider fold o the galloon which extends beyond theedge of the narrower fold thereof. As a result,

when the folding operating is performed, the y edge portion of theleather will be folded against its inner side, and adhe ely connectedthereto, and the edge portions of the galloon, to which'the cement wasapplied, will also be folded against the inner side of the leatherbeyondr its shived edge, as indicated in Fig. 9, so that all of theseparts will be cemented in the position into which they are folded. It tobeinoted, however, that it is not lessential that the edge ortion ofthenarrower fold ofthe galloon project be yondtlie edge of the leather,so thatfcement will beapplied thereto when the edge portion of theleather is cemented, as it will besufficient if the wider foldonlyprojects beyond the edge of the leather, for the reason that if the edgeportion of the wider fold adheres tothe innerside ofthe leather, whenthe folding operation is perforn'ied, it will hold the narrowerfold'flat against the leather.

With the above described attachment the cord and galloon will bepositively guided, so that they will be assembled in the requiredrelation andattached tothe upper in the ref` quired position at oneoperation, which may be performed as rapidly as if the cord and galloonhad been previously assembled, all' purposes. described, comprising acasing AllO saifjl @guide lnivinf;` a cord refeiving passage thereinarranged to extend in the direction oit said casing iassagge andopening, thereto in positien to deliver a cord between the folds of Vthe,faille/an at the hot'oin oi.I the fel-l 'therein, and cord-gnidinp` inans posed in said casingl passage and terniina'1 at the delivery endthereof, said "leans having a guidiace arranged 'to cnaf the co 'd, asit s drawn 'from the deliveryr nd of said cerdceiving passage, an dpress nie saine against e he', ein ot' the fold in the galleon and theagainsflthe adjacent side if lthe easing' passage at its elivm'jyY end,to permit the folds of the galloen to be stitched together Close to thecord, While thns held, in close prexiinit7 to the delivery end of 'thecasnig` pasage.

2. A sewing' machine attachment iter the purposes described, comprising;a casingl hav ing a i-shaped passage adaped to extend in the directionet the sewing machine .if-eed a galloen and :told the saine adidleportion as it is drawn therey i delivered to the sev-Jing ineehaanisn'i,a tubular guide located between the opposite portions of said passageand 'terminating at its rear end adjacent the intermediate poiai'on ofthe passage, and cord guiding means in said passage extending Eroi-nrear end of sait tnonlar guide to the rear et 'the passage and having aguiding 'tace ed to extend cenverpgeni'ily -with the oit theintermediate portion o't said pas-age at its' rear end, to hold the cordagainst 'the bottoni of the :told in the `galloon as the PVQgalloon 'sdeliif'ered to the sewing mechanisni.

3. A sewingmachine attachn'ient ior the purposes described, comprising acasing havplate e en ding iiroin the front to the rear end et sahLpassage and arranged to engage the edges of the gal'loon and hold it inposition n the passage, said kg'iiide plate having a oord- V'vinilihereextending trein the'iiont edge end of :aid face, and a guide in said .i1:ae/e extending freni the inner end of said tie rear end of the passageand arrai-,eied to engage the oord-as it is drawn frein san here andhold it the bottoni oi' tne fold in the galloon and hold the latteragainst said side of the passage as 'they emerge troni the passage.

4. sewing' niaehine attachment for the purpeses described, comprising aeasing` havino a gelloon receiving passage extending tl: through, in thedirection oi the sev-Jing niseiiine feed, a guide plate arranged to eX-tene into said passage troni one side thereof and having an end tacedisposed adjacent the opposite side of said passage, extending` ier aportion oi" the length thereof, and about which the galloon will loefolded as it is drawn therethrough, said guide plate having a boreadapted to receive a cord, and extending 'therethrough in proximity tosaid end 'tace and opening at its rear end to said passage, in positionto deliver the cord between the folds ot the galloon, and supplementalgiiidingl means disposed in said passage and having,r a iace arranged toengage the cordy as is drawn troni said bore and to deflect it againstlthe bottoni of the 'fold in thegalioon and hold the latter against theside oiAv said passage as it is delivered tothe sewing ineelianisni.

'ln 'testimony whereof, naine to this specification.

THOMAS ROBERTS.

et and opening to said passage at the I have signed my

